Monday, May 26, 2008


Split is a larger city - the main ferry port to Italy and a more industrial city. Most of it is not that interesting, but the old section, as in Dubrovnik is pedestrian only. Parts of it date to Roman times. We walked past the statue of St. Gregorius - it is supposed to be good luck to rub his left big toe - it is obvious many people do. It is polished to a shine compared with the rest of the statue. - we rubbed it - a little luck never hurts.

The town has a less unified look than Dubrovnik. The streets twist and turn with many very narrow alleyways. Split's old city has a more lived in feel. It also has not had the same injection of money as Dubrovnik. You can see pockmarked buildings and shutters are badly in need of fresh paint. While Dubrovnik feels like a place frozen in time, Split feels more like a place that has evolved over time. Buildings date from a variety of eras and are built with a variety of materials. It is dotted with Roman ruins from the palace of Diacletian, contains many buildings from Medieval and Renaissance times and some newer structures as well (though not modern ones).

We went into the cathedral, which, while quite small has some remarkable things to see. The altar - with inlaid marble supporting it. The front doors have incredible carvings. In the museum of the cathedral were manuscripts from the 15th century, one from the 7th century and a page, written in a different script from the 13th century. The temple to Jupiter now serves as a baptistry. . The ceiling had some elaborate carvings. Near the Protiron (one of the remaining Roman structures) are a number of Roman columns. In a rounded tower, which no longer has a roof, we heard a quartet singing Croatian songs. The acoustics were amazing. It the things you happen upon that make a trip special.

You often hear music in restaurants - and it seems to come from Croatian radio stations, but it is often in English - though from the past. Having lunch we heard everything from "I'm a Believer" to "Sealed with a kiss".

It has been hot. Eating outdoors, under an awning gives some relief from the heat.

Travelling on...

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